Seam for sewed articles.



No. 686,03l. Patented Nov. 5, I90]. 6. A. DAHL & W. W. DIXON.

SEAM FOR SEWED ARTICLES.

(Application filed June 13, 1901.)

(No Model.)

THE mums wrrsns nu, Puoi'o-1.|Tuo,,wAsumo oN. o. c

NITED STATES PATENT OFFICE.

CHARLES A. DAHL, OF LYNN, AND, WILLIAM W. DIXON, OF BOSTON, MASSA-OHUSETTS, ASSIGNORS TO REEOE BUTTONHOLE MACHINE COMPANY, OF PORTLAND,MAINE, AND BOSTON, MASSACHUSETTS.

SEAM FOR SEWED ARTICLES.

SPECIFICATION forming part of Letters Patent 110,686,031, dated November5, 1901.

Application filed J one 13, 1901.

-, To all w wm it may concern:

Be it known that we, CHARLES A. DAHL, residing at Lynn, county of Essex,and VVIL- LIAM W. DIXON, residing at Boston, county of Suffolk, State ofMassachusetts, citizens of the United States, have invented anImprovement in Seams for Sewed Articles, of which the followingdescription, in connection with the accompanying drawings, is aspecification, like characters on the drawings representing like parts.

Our invention relates to a novel seam for sewed articles, and inparticular an overseam applicable for stitching button and eyelet I5holes to cover and protect the edges of the goods, the stitch showing apurl effect at the upper as well as at the lower edges of theoverstitched goods or material.

The article forming the subject of this into vention is best describedby showing the best way known to us for producing it.

Our overseam is produced by the use of three threads, one carried by aneye-pointed needle which penetrates the material back of the edge to becovered by the overseam, a second thread carried by a looper movingacross the edge of the material from its lower to its upper side, and athird thread carried by a purl-thread guide located above the material.The loop of needle-thread below the goods is entered at each descent ofthe needle by the looper, and the needle-thread is drawn thereby to theedge of the under side of the goods, and the looper rises from be- 5 lowthe goods to the upper side thereof and presents its thread in the formof a loop to be entered by the needle as it next descends to pass itsthread through the goods, and at the.

same time the purl-thread guide is so placed with relation to the looperabove the goods and the elevated needle that the needle as it penetratesthe loop of looper-thread above the goods also crosses over thepurl-thread between the point where it is connected with the 5laststitch made and the end of the purlthread guide.

In the formation of the overseam when the threads are drawn taut tocomplete the stitch parallel portions of the needle-thread leadingSerial No. 6 4,383. (No model.)

from the goods back of its edge to the upper edge of the goods arecrossed at their outer side by the purl-thread, and the purl-thread thenembraces parallel portions of the looperthread near the point where thelooper-thread embraces the needle thread, and, acting against the outersides of the parallel portions of the loop of looper-thread, forces saidloop of thread and the needle-thread firmly in contact with the upperedge of the goods, thus making at that point a purl effect by theemployment of the three threads. Apurl efiect is formed at the edge ofthe goods at its under side by the interloopment at that edge of theneedle and the looper-threads.

Our improved overseam possesses great durability and capacity to'resiststrain and wear, and as the purlthread embraces parallel parts of theneedle-thread and of the looperthread at the edge of the goods or at theface of the goods said threads, besides being bound 7o firmly togetherat said edge are also so twisted that should the purl-thread be brokenit cannot be 'raveled out, as would be the case if the purl-thread werewound spirally about the portion of the needle -thread extended alongthe edge between the substantially parallel parts of the needle-threadlying on the face of the goods.

In our seam the purl-thread is wound spirally around the needle andlooper threads at their points of concatenation.

Figure 1 shows, on a large scale, one edge of a piece of goods and threethreads forming an overseam made in accordance with our invention; andFigs. 2 to 11 show the implements for controlling or handling the threethreads employed in the overseam but it will be understood that theparticular implements represented are not essential in the production ofour overseam;

To facilitate making our overseam, we will designate the threads asneedle-thread a, looper-thread b, and purl-thread c, and the goods ormaterial in which the overseam is to be made as d. The goods willusually have 95 a slit or opening, as e, which may be the slit for abuttonhole, and by the term goods we intend to include either cloth,leather, or

any other substance with which the stitches may be incorporated in theproduction of the seam.

For convenience in the manufacture of our overseam let it be supposedthat the needlethread is carried by an eye-pointed threadcarrying needlea, the looper-thread by a looper I), located normally below the goods,and the purl-thread by a purl-thread guide 0.

We have shown in our Patent No. 684,0l6,

dated October 8, 1901, a sewing-machine containing an eye-pointedneedle, a looper, and a purl-thread guide, such as herein partiallyillustrated, and that application shows and describes fully means foractuating said parts automatically and rapidly for the production of.the overseam forming the subject-matter of this present invention.

Referring to Fig. 1, parallel portions of the needle-thread above thegoods have been drawn by the purl-thread c from the point 0 Where theneedle a penetrated the goods back from the edge to be provided with theoverseam, and the needle-thread at the under side of the goods is led ina loop form, presenting substantiallyparallel portions to the edge ofthe goods, as at 2, and at this point a bight of the needle-thread isentered by the looperthread b, it passing from the goods at its underedge across the said edge where the end of the loop of looper-thread isentered by parallel parts of the needle-thread.

Viewing Fig. 1, it will be not-iced that the purl-thread first crossesthe outer side of the parallel parts of looper-thread 1), leading fromthe under side of the goods, and then across the outside of parallelparts of the needlethread a, lying at the outer face of the goods,leading from the point where the needle penetrated the goods, strain onthe purl-thread thus binding the looper and needle threads close to thegoods at the edge thereof on its upper side, and by interlocking thethreads, as described, the purl-thread, if broken, cannot be drawn out.As the purl-thread is drawn taut in the completion of each stitch itacts to pull it, as it were, from the points where the needle penetratesthe goods and draw to the edge of the goods portions of theneedle-thread. It will be noticed that this purl-thread passes spirallyaround the needle and looper threads at their points of concatenation.

Referring now to Fig. 2, illustrative of one way that the overseam maybe produced, it will be seen that the needle a has penetrated the goodsand has left a loop at the under side thereof and that the looper hasentered the loop of needle-thread and is rising through said loop thatthe looper-thread may be so presented with relation to the path ofmovement of the needle a that the latter at its next descent may enter aloop of looper-thread. With the needle and looper in the position Figs.2 and 3 the end of the purlthread guide 0 will stand at one side of theslit e, as represented in Figs. 2 and 3, and it will be supposed that astitch has already been made and that the end of the purl-thread isconnected with the goods at the right-hand side of the slit 6, Figs. 2and 3. Fig. 4 shows the looper as having substantially completed itsupward movement, and in this condition the purl-thread guide will bemoved from the position, Figs. 3 and 5 forwardly, crossing the edge ofthe goods in which the overseam is being made, and the purl-thread guidewill be so moved as to wrap its thread about the shank of the looper, asrepresented in Fig. 7, and after the purl-thread guide shall have beenmoved to draw its thread about the shank of the looper the needle willthen descend and will enter, as shown in Fig. 6, the loop oflooper-thread, and will also descend at the farther side of thepurl-thread, crossing the latter between the purl-thread guide and thebody of the looper. Figs. 8 and 9 show the needle as having descended,as stated. The next step is to withdraw the looper from the loop ofneedle-thread at the under side of the material or to move the looperfrom the position Fig. 8 into the position Fig. 10. As the looperdescends from the position Fig. 8 into the position Fig. 10 the needlealso rises, and as the looper descends it acts upon the looperthreadsurrounding the needle-thread above the material, acting to draw theneedle-thread from the point where it is held in the material back fromthe edge thereof forwardly to the edge of the material, and at the sametime the purl-thread guide is moved from the position Figs. 9 and 11back into the position Figs. 2 and 3, and in so doing the purl-threadcrossing (see Fig. 11) the outer side of the loop of looper-thread isdrawn taut and laid in a position to cross the outer side of theparallel parts of needle-th read, as represented in Fig. 1.

Having described our invention, what we claim, and desire to secure byLetters Patent,

1. The improved overseam described for sewed articles, comprising apiece of goods, a needle-thread, a looper-thread, and a purlthread, theneedle-thread extending through the goods at a short distance from itsedges and leading therefrom both above and below the goods to the lowerand upper edges of the goods, the looper-thread entering the loop ofneedle-thread drawn to the under edge of the goods and being laid tocross the edge of the goods to the upper side thereof, the loop oflooper thread above the goods receiving through it the needle-thread,substantially parallel parts of the loops of looper-thread and of theneedle-thread at or near the upper edge of the goods being overlaid orcrossed externally by the purl-thread, the latter after cross ing theloopof looper-thread near where it is entered by the needle-threadcrossing the substantially parallel parts of the loop of needle-thread.

2. A seam for sewed articles, comprising a piece of goods, a threadpassing through the goods at a distance from the edges and formed intotwo series of loops extending to said edges, a second thread at theedges of said goods concatenated with each of the two series of loops ofthe first thread, a third thread lying spirally around said first andsecond threads at their points of concatenation and passing beneath thebends of said series of loops of the first thread, wherebyapurl edge isformed at both edges of the goods.

3. A seam for sewed articles, comprising a piece of goods, a threadpassing through the goods away from the edges and formed into two seriesof loops extending to said edges, a second thread formed into series ofloops, said loops passing through the loops of one series of the firstthread and surrounding adjacent bights of adjacent loops of the otherseries of the first thread, a third thread passing spirally around thefirst and second threads at their points of concatenation along one edgeof the goods, said thread passing beneath the bends of the series ofloops in the first thread, whereby a purl edge is formed at both edgesof the goods.

4. A seam for sewed articles, comprising a piece of goods, a threadpassing through the goods away from the edges and formed into two seriesof loops extending to said edges, a second thread formed into a seriesof loops, said loops passing through the loops of one series of thefirst thread and surrounding adjacent bights of adjacent loops of theother series of the first thread, a third thread concatenated with saidfirst and second threads along one edge of the goods and overlying theloops of the second thread and overlying adjacent bights of adjacentloops of the first thread, and underlying both threads at their pointsof concatenation, whereby a purl edge is formed at both edges of thegoods.

5. A seam for sewed articles, comprising a piece of goods, a threadpassing through the goods, away from the edges and formed into twoseries of loops extending to said edges, a second thread formed into aseries of loops, said loops passing through the loops of one series ofthe first thread and surrounding adjacent bights of adjacent loops ofthe other series of the first thread, a third thread concatenated withthe first and second threads along one edge and underlying the bonds ofthe loops of the first thread, overlying the bights of the loops of thesecond thread, underlying both the first and the second threads at theirpoints of concatenation, and overlying the adjacent bights of adjacentloops of the first thread, wherebya purl edge is formed along both edgesof the goods.

6. A seam-sewed article comprising a piece ofgoods, a thread formed intoa series of loops across the edges of the goods, another thread passingthrough the goods away from the edges and concatenated with the firstthread along both edges of the goods, a third thread passing spirallyaround the first and second threads at their points of concatenationalong one edge of the goods, said thread passing beneath the bends ofthe series of loops in the first thread, wherebya purl edge is formedalong both edges of the goods.

In testimony whereof We have signed our names to this specification inthe presence of the subscribing witnesses.

CHARLES A. DAHL.

WILLIAM DIXON. Witnesses for O. A. Dahl:

Geo. W. GREGORY, Gnoaen C. HILL. Witnesses for W. W. Dixon:

J osEPH M. REMO, Ms. E: DWYER.

